How to Taste Your Wine – A Castle in Tuscany

Castello di Verrazzano

Castello di Verrazzano

Today, for lunch, we headed to a castle.

No biggie.

We’d heard great reviews of the Castello di Verrazzano, a Chianti Classico producing winery that gives tours and lunch. We chose to do the food and wine experience, which included a 5-course meal, with a gluten-free menu for me. Yay!

Our day started with a workout, as it often has on vacation. I haven’t written too much about it, but I have to credit Julie’s at home workouts for us not gaining a trillion pounds. We do usually 30 minutes a day of intense circuit workouts, and of course, tons of walking around and sight-seeing. I’ve found that breaking a sweat before breakfast has made a huge difference in my self-esteem and well-being.

Then, we headed over to the castle. The castle is about 2 miles off a winding road that is just stunning, plopped in vineyards as if it grew there on it’s own.

We met Elena, our tour guide. Both of us were shocked by how many people there were – about 30 on the tour! People from all over the world, but tons of New Yorkers made a showing.

First, we explored the beautiful gardens of the Verrezzano’s (now owned by another family). The Verrezzano’s, until the 1960′s, had lived on the property for 1,000 years. Giovanni di Verrazzano, born in 1485, was the first European since AD 1000 to land in New York, and thereby is credited with discovering it. He even has a bridge named after him!

Castello di Verrazzano wine cellar

Castello di Verrazzano wine cellar

After the gardens, we explored the beautiful cellars, where they make and store their wine. It was fun to hear about the different kinds of grapes, barrels and processes used to make their many wines. Castello di Verrazzano wine cellar

After the tour, it was time for the fun to begin!

We started with Elena talking us through our tasting.  Elena was not only a great and funny tour guide, but gave excellent tips on how to really taste wine.

Steps to a Wine Tasting

  1. Pour the wine. Pour only a few ounces – no need for a goblet when first tasting it.
  2. Check the color. Usually, the more intense the color, the longer the wine has been aged. Then, tilt the glass to the side so you can see the wine on an angle, preferably against something white, like a table cloth. The top part (nearest the rim) should be much paler than the rest of the wine. If it’s all the same color, throw it out.
  3. Get your nose in it. Swirl the wine around so you can smell the fruit, not just the alcohol. Stick your nose in the glass, and inhale deeply. Notice the odors and what it reminds you of – there is no wrong answers!
  4. Taste it. Take a small sip, and let it settle on your tongue. Note the flavors. Enjoy.

We started with the Verrazzano Rosso red Tuscan IGT, with a platter of ham, salami, lardo (don’t ask too many questions) and for me, gluten-free bread that was wonderfully delicious – it tasted like real Tuscan bread, and I got to dip it in the olive oil grown on the property!

Castello di Verrazzano salami

Salami from wild boar raised on the property

Lardo from Castello di Verrazzano

Lardo. Just pretend it's butter.

Castello di Verrazzano proscuitto

Proscuitto

Then, we had a gluten-free ribollita, which is traditionally made on a bread base. It’s a cabbage, black cabbage and white bean soup, and it’s to die for. I’ll try and get the recipe, though I shudder to think of how much olive oil is in that divine mixture!

Ribbolita from Castello di Verrazzano

Gluten-free ribbolita.

Afterwards, we tried their Chianti Classico DOCG with corn penne with tomato sauce and herbs. The Chianti was stronger then the Verrazzano Rosso, and it was much dryer. Delicious.

gluten-free penne with fresh tomato sauce

gluten-free penne with fresh tomato sauce

Afterwards, we had the Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, with grilled sausages, ribs, salad, and white beans. I was already pretty full, so had a small sausage and a rib, with salad, cauliflower, and white beans.

Next, we had the SuperTuscan, which was my favorite of the wines. Rich, bold in flavor, and a bit more familiar to me, probably due to the french grapes in the mix . We had it with some pecorino cheese and their Verrazzano Balsamic, that was so delicious I had another spoonful…and then another. Three teaspoons of Balsamic makes cat a happy girl!

We finished with a taste of vin santo and grappa, which I couldn’t have more than a few teeny sips of, as it was so strong.

It was a delicious meal, and a great way to experience the wines of Tuscany!

To walk off our meal, we went to a local village, Montefiore, and wandered around for about 45 minutes It was so cool to see a true Tuscan village, with no shops or tourist things, just people walking around and living.

Montefiore town

Montefiore

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Montefiore people

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Finally, we headed home for a mellow, light meal of grilled salmon and white beans. Tough life.

Love to you,

Kat

Note: All photos courtesy of Anthony van der Hoorn. Thanks, lovebug.

 

Rootin’ for Deruta

Our last day in Florence is starting out with a bang!

Since arriving here in Italy, I’ve found it absolutely impossible not to indulge in my all time favorite beverage, espresso, though a torrid affair have we. Caffeine makes me a little silly, but it’s so worth it. I mean, how could you not indulge in the nectar of the gods, roasted here, and juiced with such aplomb?

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So, before we head off, Ant and I are making a final stop at Rivoli, for him to taste their legend-wait-for-it-dary hot chocolate (cioccolata) and I’ll either have espresso or my all time favorite, the americano. The americano is a shot of espresso served with a tea pot of hot water, that you dilute to your preference. Did you know that the americano was invented because of soldiers stationed in World War II Italy, who were so homesick for their beloved watered down beverage that they just poured water in their espresso, thus creating a whole new drink? Pretty nifty, hey?

Then, we head off to Deruta, about two hours south in Perugia.

Deruta is the capital town where they make all the stunning Tuscan pottery we’ve been drooling over, so we figured it would be a fun way to spend an afternoon, before heading back up North for the night.

Some of the beauties we’ve seen lately…

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All of these were far too expensive (that top plate was $200 alone!) but we did end up buying these…

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These were bowls and cups that were half-off, hand-painted Deruta pottery. Why were they 50% off? Because they were one of a kind. They started with these half-white, half-red set, and decided to go with all red (something I can’t understand, because I think the half-and-half looks so amazing. I love when things like that happen.

Off to get a shot, and hop on the road. More coming soon from the Tuscan country-side!

A New ‘Do

Sometimes, a girl just needs a change.

You know, besides quitting her job, moving out of her apartment, moving 10,000 miles, traveling for 5 months, changing careers…

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She needs a change of look to match.

Well, I tried to just get a trim. We went to a little place around the corner from our Florence apartment, and something major got lost in translation. Instead of taking off an inch to clean it up, I ended up looking a little like this…

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It was really, really bad. I didn’t know how to communicate what was wrong, and I’m sure she wasn’t actively trying to make me look like a porcupine, so I thanked her, smiled, and left.

Anthony instantly understood my conundrum, and encouraged me to get another haircut. Note, haircuts here are priced in euros, so this was not an easy thing to swallow, but walking around for the next two months looking like a pomeranian wasn’t going to make me feel all that great.

So, I went to a new salon, and met a lovely, sympathetic stylist named Andreas. He didn’t speak much English, and my Italian is fairly limited to meals and shopping, so we communicated with photos, gestures, and prayer. When he showed me this photo, I was initially surprised, but then decided to just go with it.

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So, after one of the most detailed, slow-moving and artistic hair-cuts I’ve ever received…

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The results feel (and to me, look!) amazing.

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I’m loving it. It’s easy, fun, and best of all, looks best right out of bed, no blow-dry or brushing!

That’s my kinda do.

For great hair-cuts in Florence:

Aldo Coppola, ask for Andreas

Via del Parione 62r

50123 Firenze

QOTD: Ever wanted to chop off all your hair? Ever do it?

Two Local Gems – part one

Today, my beautiful camera, Sadie, jumped off a cliff. Not literally, but she has an unfixable error, and it’s so upsetting, especially as we still have 39 days of the trip!

So, instead of being sad, I want to share with you one of two fantastic local finds we discovered, this first one being in Israel.

The first is an eye glass store in the German Colony of Jerusalem.

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I lived for 24 years in New York City, and now live in Brisbane. Both are cosmopolitan, large, and give me access to anything I want. Even with that, from now on, I will most likely go to Jean Baer at Roim Bamoshava Optic shop for all my spectacle needs. He’s passionate, interested, and as a huge plus. carries Theo, my favorite glasses designer. His prices are also insanely reasonable, and he’s very happy to tell you when things do (or don’t) suit you.

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Seriously, if you ever need glasses and you happen to be in the middle east, go to Jean. He’s incredible.

ROIM BAMOSHAVA OPTIC V.

43 EMEK REPHAIM

IL-93141 JERUSALEM

Phone: 009.722.566.3822

E-mail: Opticbaer@gmail.com

Wordless Wednesday – Highlights of La Cucina alla Toscana

Tuscan food has always, is, and will always be my absolute favorite cuisine. Rustic, simple, based on perfectly fresh, seasonal ingredients speaking for themselves, La Cucina Toscana is my ideal. Strongly featured are white beans, chickpeas, spinach, and of course, the infamous Florentine steak. Here are some highlight meals since we’ve gotten here. All have ranged from cheap to affordable, some were at home, some at ristorante and trattorie. Enjoy!

gluten free pizza from Le Botteghe di Donatello

gluten free pizza from Le Botteghe di Donatello

Espresso from Florian cafe

Espresso from Florian cafe

Salads from Aqua al Due

Salads from Aqua al Due

Boiled beef from Nerbone

Boiled beef from Nerbone (I was desperate...and it was delish!)

White bean and cabbage soup from Trattoria Mario

White bean and cabbage soup from Trattoria Mario

Minestrone soup from Tato

Minestrone soup from Tato

Antipasto from a trattoria I can't remember

Antipasto from a trattoria I can't remember

zuppa di pesche from the same trattoria

zuppa di pesche from the same trattoria

chicken with arugula, tomatoes, chickpeas and cipolline onions

chicken with arugula, tomatoes, chickpeas and cipolline onions at home