What Economic Crisis Actually Looks Like.

As a New York City dweller, the economic decline of the late 2000′s has been much more theoretical than visible. I know that there are millions of people who are unemployed. I know that houses are being foreclosed upon. I know that people are stuck, frustrated, and desperate. However, that knowledge is mostly from listening to the radio, and reading and watching the news. I don’t know it from walking around the upper West Side and gazing in the shops, or from working in a stunning and upscale gym, or by walking in Central Park.

In Athens, it’s a different story.

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The city’s economic decay is apparent wherever you go. From graffiti on the exterior of famous museums, to every billboard being totally empty (no advertisements to be seen) to strikes every few days, Athens is a clear and sad example of what happens when the economy is in trouble.

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It’s fascinating to see the general attitude of the Greek. Everyone we spoke to was eager to talk about the crisis, and their opinions on the issue are varied, though mostly intense. Everyone knows a great deal about the problem, but no one is quite sure how to fix it. Everyone feels it, though – from the owners of our rental flat to the professor of Psychology at Athens University we met, everyone feels the downfall in a painfully tangible way.

Athens is still beautiful, and the Acropolis is magical. It’s frustrating as a visitor, however, to see the exorbinant expenditures of money in one area, such as the meticulous and lavish subway (which was only created because of the 2004 Athens Olympics, and when I say lavish, I mean it has a solar-powered decorative fan, powered by halogen lights, over each exit way, apparently just for decoration), and hear about the lack of spending in other areas, such as in schools and hospitals. Of course, it’s not for me to judge, as I admittedly barely even understand the depth of the crisis. I think it just took me by surprise that a city with such history and such past strength could be so deeply and quickly effected by an intense decline.

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Souvlaki’d Out

Wanna see a food rut?

This is what all my meals looked like in Greece. Truly, all of ‘em, except for one.

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Chicken souvlaki, and vegetables. Chicken souvlaki, and vegetables. Did I mention chicken souvlaki?

I ordered it because it was easy, healthy, and cheap. How often do you find that winning trilogy? But, at the end of the day, it’s good to explore other options, which is what we did on our last day in Athens. Wandering through the city after the National Archeological Museum (more on that later), we stumbled upon this little treasure (which, as it turns out. is in the Rick Steves guidebook. So, it’s not all that original a find.)

To Kapevio, a little restaurant of of Tripolon street near the Acropolis, is a gem of a spot specializing in Mezedes, or small appetizers.

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The fireplace warmed interior was cozy but spacious, with stone walls giving way to a sloped wooden ceiling. Alongiside chairs were cushioned benches, with a clear view of the kitchen.

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We ordered four dishes from the very tongue in cheek menu, and deeply enjoyed our choices.

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Ful, which was chickpeas with olives, onions, and lemon was smooth and rich. Creamy and simple, it tasted just divine.

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Greek salad with “smashed” feta cheese was a typical Greek salad. We also ordered the “Dream Mushrooms” with were so dreamy and luscious that I forgot to snap a photo (they were in a tomato and wine sauce, sprinkled with local cheese.

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Finally, we had the meatballs covered with “THE sauce.” The sauce was delicious, slightly sweet and tangy, but the meatballs themselves were extraordinary. Light, perfectly spiced, and melt-in-your-mouth good, these meatballs were almost as good as Grandma’s (but not quite.)

It was a great way to enjoy a meal and have a change in cuisine style. When we return to Athens, To Kapevio is definitely where I will be headed!

As to the Museum, it was wonderful. Here are a few highlights:

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It was a wonderful tour of Greek history in a few hours, from the Paleolithic to the Classical. Such a wonderful way to spend our last day in Rome!