Coming Home

We did it!

Our first four mile run (ok, fine, run with a splash of walking) is completed!

All told, it took about 45 minutes to run 4.2 miles, as we walked for a bit because our legs were exhausted after yesterday’s walking. But, it was still a great way to see the sun rise over Tel Aviv!

Jerusalem has, since my first visit over ten years ago, felt like a second home. While it’s old (many of the stones in the streets have been there for over two thousand years!) pushy (as in, people physically push you out of the way if you’re standing lost staring at a map) and loud (cars honk. All the time!)

After we took the hour long bus ride from Tel Aviv (Lior was kind enough to drive us to the bus – seriously, use TLVsublets if you’re visiting Tel Aviv!) we checked into our hotel, the Dan Boutique. This is our most expensive stay of our entire two month trip, but the moment we checked in, we realized how deeply worth it it is. Elegant, modern, with a view of the old city and a quick walk to central and down-town Jerusalem, staying in the Dan Boutique gives us a perfect stepping off point for our stay in the Holy City.

Dan Boutique Hotel room

Dan Boutique hotel

Dan Boutique hotel room view

Dan Boutique hotel room view

After relaxing for a bit and heading into the old city, we stopped at a kosher meat place in the center of it all called B.B.Q. I had a grilled chicken salad that was so unbelievably yummy that I ate every bite. Notable only because it was the size of my head.

B.B.Q Chicken Salad

B.B.Q Chicken Salad

After lunch, we went to the Jaffa gate to see one of my dearest friends, Rabbi Mottle Wolfe, at Jaffa Gate. Even though it was raining, he brought us on a lovely tour of the Jewish quarter.

Jaffa Gate Jerusalem

Jaffa Gate, in Jerusalem

Jerusalem bagel man

Jerusalem bagels (officially, the longest bagels in the world.)

Western Wall

Western Wall

Jewish quarter, Old City

Jewish quarter, Old City

After we parted ways, Anthony and I headed to the Burnt House Museum, a small but gorgeously designed museum that shows the destroyed foundations of a home from the time of the destruction of the second temple. While it officially shows the worst movie ever made (like an embarrassing Spanish soap opera) it’s definitely worth a visit.

Burnt House Museum

Burnt House Museum

A Spear from the Burnt House Museum

A Spear from the Burnt House Museum

When the constant rain and chilly air became too much for us, we headed over to the infamous King David hotel for a drink in the bar where presidents have sipped.

King David Hotel Bar

King David Hotel Bar

King David Hotel Bar

King David Hotel Bar drinks

So fancy I could faint

Talk about classy – they made a minor mistake on Anthony’s drink, and comped our first round of drinks! Of course, that meant we absolutely had to have another…

I had vodka and soda water with a lemon. While I’m normally solely a wine drinker, it was fun to branch out.

For dinner, we went to a lovely little spot called Olives and Fish. Olives and Fish

We shared two appetizers and a main, which is a great way to go for a light meal.

Orange Soup

Orange Soup (made of orange vegetables)

Mixed Salads from Olives and Fish

Mixed salads (a gift from the restaurant)

Roasted eggplant with tahini and tomato salsa

Grilled eggplant with artichoke, tahini and tomato salsa

Chicken and lamb kabab

Chicken and lamb kabab

Roasted vegetables

roasted vegetables

After a long day, it feels like such a luxury to curl up in a warm bed and relax. Laila tov, mispacha.

Hidden Alleys and Secret Schwarma

The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry.

We planned on a four mile run this morning. We really did. We planned for a sunset run. That was dumb.

After walking non-stop (literally, save for a 20 minute lunch and a 15 minute tea break) from 9:00am to 4:00pm in very lovely (and comfortable, but still) boots, we are both exhausted. Collapsed on the couch, sipping water, legs askew and about to passed out exhausted.

We started our day by walking from our apartment in Tel Aviv to the Carmel markets, followed by the Jaffa flea markets.

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All told, we walked between 9 and 15k. First, we explored the Carmel markets.

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The Carmel market is the largest open market in Tel Aviv, and carries everything from toothbrushes and Judaica to fresh cups of pomegranate arils and halva. We explored, sampled, and sniffed (including one spice seller who, upon seeing my interest in his array of spices, grabbed my hand, dumped a tablespoon of cooked rice into it, and sprinkled a variety of seasonings on it. “Eat, eat!” He said. I complied. My knees were weak from the flavor. Unfortunately, importing spices to Australia is a big “no,no” so I had to walk away.

After we completed our walk through, we headed over to the Jaffa Markets, a massive open air flea market with everything from furniture to tea cups to jewelry. We had a wonderful time wandering through, admiring wares from shops and stalls, and stopping for a delicious cup of Manilla Mango tea.

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We discovered our lunch by turning into a quiet alley with a small stand and a few tables. Lunch was schwarma, a quintessential middle-eastern dish made of grilled meat on a spit that can be cooked as long as a day. It is cut vertically into thin slices, and served on a pita (or in my case, on a plate.)

While the schwarma itself wasn’t my favorite (it was a bit greasier than I enjoy) the accompanying salads were delicious. Not to mention, at around $5.00 US, it was a great deal.

schwarma and salad

Israeli salad

After lunch, we just kept walking and wandering until we physically couldn’t any more. I hope after a nice rest, we can find the energy to drag ourselves out for a bit of dinner, and hopefully a night on the town!

Viva Tel Aviv!

Just so you know, in case you were curious, Tel Aviv has hundreds of thousands of cats. I have never seen so many cats in my life. Crawling out from under cars, peering down from balconies I don’t think they belong to, or rubbing against your leg while sipping a cup of tea, Tel Aviv is overrun with cats.

But let’s step back and go all the way back to the beginning of our world adventure.

The trip really began on the flight. Actually, it began when we got our tickets.

World Traveller

World Travellers, oh yes we are!

Our tickets said “World Traveller” in big block letters on them. Yes, that’s the label for British Airways economy class, but who cares? Our tickets said, “World Traveller.”

We landed in Tel Aviv after 16 hours (including a layover in London) on Friday afternoon, also known as erev Shabbos. Shabbat was right about to descend on the mostly secular city, but you can still feel it in the air – people scurrying to close their shops, get home to have dinner with their families and embark on their day of rest.

We were picked up from the airport by Lior, the owner of TLVSublet. We found 80% of our accommodations through airbnb.com, a service that allows you to find people who are renting out rooms in their apartments, or their entire apartments, to eager travelers. It’s a very affordable way to travel, and you can stay in anything from a tiny room in the back of someone’s apartment in Casablanca to a 19-bedroom castle in the south of France. Really.

As this apartment is our first experience with airbnb, we already feel a little spoiled. Lior was unbelievably responsive and eager to help from the moment we landed, not only picking us up from the airport, but driving us around for an hour to show us the scene. He also offered to pick us up on Monday to drive us to the bus station, and brought us to our apartment and showed us all the nooks and crannies. Plus, he gave us a free upgrade to a two-bedroom, beach view apartment, simply because it was empty (lucky us!)

When we arrived in our apartment, both of us were giddy with excitement. Not only was it immaculate and beautiful, but you can actually see the beach from out of the window!

Beach view in Tel Aviv

TLV Sublet interior

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After we relaxed for a moment and unpacked, we headed out on our way. Within two minutes, we were standing on the beach, watching the beautiful sunset.

Beach view in Tel Aviv

We wandered around until we saw an irresistible little cafe on the beach. I mean, who can resist a name like LalaLand?

Lala Land restaurant

LaLaLand

A laid-back, beachy restaurant with a Hamptons bungalow flair, we pulled up our day bed and ordered some Israeli sparkling wine and hummus thick enough to function as cement (in a very, very good way.)

LalaLand interior

Champagne and Hummus

Champagne and Hummus. I could die happy.

It was a perfect way to celebrate the start of our trip, and relax on the beach, all at the same time.

LaLa Land

The Beach Gordon Brach, Tel Aviv, Israel

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After walking around for a few more hours, our stomachs began to grumble and we starting searching for a restaurant. Lior recommended Goocha, a fish restaurant a few blocks from our house.

Goocha interior

A bustling place with delightfully fresh fish and a wide variety, I ordered mussels provencal, and Anthony ordered salmon fillet with roasted vegetables. Both were delicious and hit the spot.

Goocha mussels

salmon fillet with roasted vegetables

Goocha

Corner of Dizengoff and Ben-Gurion Boulevard

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After dinner, we hit the wall, and quickly walked home and went to sleep. Quite a few adventures awaited us in the morning!

How to Rock Two Months, Eight Countries, 20+ Cities…in a Carry-On

It’s hard to believe that tonight, we leave for our two month trip to Europe. It took so much planning and coordination, but (fingers-crossed) it seems like it is mostly planned, especially the first few weeks!

So we could travel around with ease, Anthony and I really wanted to keep our packing to a minimum, and have one carry-on bag each, and one large camping back-back. Now, I’m nobodies fashionista, but still – two months in a carry-on in Europe is quite a challenge to pack for, particularly in the dead of winter. However, we’ll hopefully make it work with the following carefully chosen list.

Clothes

  • 3 regular shirts for day to day use.*
  • 2 pairs of jeans.*
  • 3 pairs of quick-drying underwear from Ex-Officio (you wash them with soap and hang them to dry – they are dry and clean in three hours. Miracle clothing.)*
  • Two regular bras, one strapless bra.*
  • 1 dressy top
  • 1 skirt (two if I can find space)
  • 2 wraps/flowy tops for layering*
  • 2 pairs of leggings
  • 2 pairs of workout pants
  • 2 workout tops
  • 1 gray coat*
  • 1 scarf*
  • 1 hat*
  • Gloves*

Shoes

  • One pair of boots*
  • One pair of running shoes
  • One pair of black flats

*One of which will be worn on the plane.

Toiletries

  • Trish McEvoy make-up (I LOVE her stuff, not only for the gorgeous colors, but because they pack up so small and neat in her palettes!) and Sephora brushes
  • Tooth-brush
  • Contacts
  • Glasses
  • mini shampoo and conditioner
  • Face wash and moisturizer (I use Stilla tinted moisturizer with 20 SPF for a combination product)
  • Sunscreen

Electronics/Entertainment/Etc

  • Laptop (and charger!)
  • Ipad loaded with at least 20 books (one charger for all “i” items
  • Iphone
  • Sadie the camera
  • Headphones
  • Garmin workout watch and charger
  • Garmin Nuvi 750 (we’re renting cars in two countries so borrowed my mom’s Garmin for the trip)
  • Back-up hard-drive with movies for the flights (it might sound silly, but considering we’re taking 14 flights in two months, those hours sure add up!)

Misc.

  • Food for the plane
  • Rice cakes and single serving packets of almond butter (in case of emergency for breakfasts)
  • Stevia
  • Yoga Mat (wrapped around Anthony’s tripod – GENIUS.)

Even though it’s a lot of stuff, it’s not a lot of big stuff, so should pack up quite nicely. If not, we’ll start taking out stuff as we go. At the end of the day, if I don’t get to have any of these things, it doesn’t really matter, because I’ll be with my love on a journey of a lifetime, and I just can’t wait!


Jetsetters 2.0

G’day mates from the air!

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Well, I’m writing this in the air, but won’t publish till I get me some free wifi, as I’m not particularly keen on spending $10 for wi-fi for a one hour flight. Priorities.

Last night was our last night in Florida, and our last night with my parents for the next two months, while we jet-set off to Europe!

Last night, we ran three miles to officially start our half-marathon training plan, that we’re using less to train for a race, and more to keep in shape while we indulge in cheese, wine, and regional treats with abandon.

Workout of the Day:

Three miles in 28:30. I was quite pleased, as it was almost the same pace as we did on Thursday, and today it felt moderate, not ass-kicking. Yay, Law of Specificity!!!

To celebrate and say good-bye, my dad made some of his best (read: my favorite) dishes.

Cioppino

Cioppino

A luscious and light cioppino, with haddock, clams, mussels and prawns. It was perfect – the seafood was cooked impeccably, and the tomato sauce was fruity and flavorful.

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For desert, we had my absolute favorite food – homemade unsweetened whipped cream.

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With a side of berries.

berries and whipped cream

Such a delicious meal.

The hardest part of all the travel is having to say good-bye to my family. I am so very close to my parents (and the rest of my family) and having to say good-bye so often doesn’t seem to be getting easier.

For breakfast this morning, I used the left-over tomato sauce to do a variation on shakshuka, in honor of the fact that we’ll be in Israel in two days! (And because there was no way that I was letting the left-over tomato sauce go to waste.)

fake shakshuka

Two rice cakes, one with hummus, and one with peanut butter, rounded out the dish, which was basically scrambled egg whites plopped on top of the tomato sauce. No where near as divine as shakshuka, (a tomato stew that has eggs cooked on top of the sauce) but the flavor was there.

The rest of the day will be a whirlwind of errands before our 7 o’clock flight to Jerusalem via London tomorrow. I sure hope we get everything done!

Travel Tip: Between trips, give yourself a little more than 24 hours. Especially if you are

  1. Going away for more than a couple of days
  2. Changing climates dramatically
  3. Don’t want to feel insane, overwhelmed and exhausted.